The Anti-Canadia Tour

Sabbaticals rock and here's the gory details. Read along if you want to be a groupie!

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Postby Tawmass » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:41 am

* August 20, morning, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, 2803 miles: Got up bright and early leaving Cody with the sun already getting warm, heading again to Yellowstone Park. Along the way was this towering, odd shrine of a building, which I was told the creator fell off the thing and died. Also passed the Double D Ranch and couldn’t resist a shot of that! I met up again with Stephanie and we rolled into the Park entrance, when who should I meet but Bill Spencer! He and his bud Scott Forest were at a seminar in Montana (and met my bud Bruce Butler) and were on their way back to Oregon. What are the odds of that?! So I rode with them the rest of the day. Going into the Park, there were forest fires becoming more prevalent. At one stop, Scott realized his film camera - had no film! Doh! So much for all the pictures he had been taking. We made our way over the Continental Divide to Old Faithful and waited for it to blow its top along with a throng of other tourists. Oh, great story: I quizzed one of the rangers as to what was the craziest thing that’s happened since he has worked there and he said that for a couple years there were a couple pranksters running around the park in gorilla suits stopping traffic. The Forest Service finally caught up with them and it was a couple of kids having fun. Too funny! I can just imagine the East Coasters saying, “Look, Yellowstone has gorillas!” We then went inside the stunningly rustic Old Faithful Lodge - what an amazing work of art!

Afterwards we started pointing our way south towards Grand Teton National Park and eventually to Jackson Hole, where I was going to rent a motel room. Along the way were countless buffalo on and alongside the road. One stop had people watching a grizzly, but we just missed them - maybe a good thing. Along the way, a gent from Illinois named Bob Meada hooked up and rode with us on his BMW. He missed a turn, so thought he’d go with us. We pulled into Jackson Hole and checked into motel rooms. The cheapest I could find was a discount of $195/night - whoa! Jackson is an expensive town! Bill and Scott decided they would continue west to Oregon, so Bob and I decided to find a place to pitch our tents, but no camping areas to be found! WTF? Evidently property in this area is so expensive, it doesn’t pay to have a KOA or something - crazy! We eventually found a campground north of town a number of miles away - with signs warning of grizzly bears - ack! Bob and I stashed our food and toiletries in a bear bin and hit the hay (after the mosquitoes ate us). Needless to say I didn’t sleep well all night waiting for Yogi to pounce on my unsuspecting body stuck inside a mummy bag. We awoke this morning unscathed and grateful. We rode into Jackson for coffee, but not without dodging buffalo on the way. Today I’m thinking of hitting West Yellowstone or Red Lodge by the end of the day.
Ho bisogno di una doccia,
-Tom
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Postby E-Ticket » Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:21 am

Stephanie, eh.... <nudge>
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Postby Tawmass » Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:55 am

* August 21, morning, Top Of The World, Wyoming, 3004 miles: Critters seen: countless buffalo, elk, one coyote, one black bear, bighorn sheep, geese, and pelicans. Critters almost hit: the coyote. Bob and I finally found a mocha place that had wireless and I started uploading and drinking. Bob had a cup and hit the road. We planned on meeting again at the BMW Rally in Red Lodge on Thursday or Friday. Time went by quickly at the java shop, since there was a rather large amount of stunningly beautiful women frequenting the coffee shop. Money must begat beauty. I eventually headed back north again towards the Tetons and the photos followed in my wake. The morning sun shone on Teton’s Peaks in a dazzling display of God’s magic. The minor damper to nature’s parade was the slight haze from the eastern forest fires. Traffic was thick as expected and there was always something worth checking when there were cars bottlenecked on the road. I found out the locals call that the ‘Bear Jam’. I transferred again into Yellowstone Park and made my way out the Northeast Exit over Dunraven Pass. Holy crap, what an excellent motorbike road! It went up to 9,000, then dropped like a rock and the temperature changes mirrored the altitude.

Once exiting the Park, I was finally on the road that literally everyone said I HAD to try: Beartooth Highway. I was kind of ready for a let down on expectations, since it was built up so much. I was not let down at all - what an excellent engineering marvel for motorcycles! Around the start was (after Tower Falls) another bear jam, but this time it literally was a black bear napping, of which I got to see its head poke out from the grass for about one second, but I saw it nonetheless. After a few more buffalo stops, I came out into Lamar Valley and a scrawny coyote (with a tracking collar) ran right in front of me! I couldn’t believe it. He didn’t hardly even look my way and kept trotting past me down the road scouting for food. I turned Barney around and road down to him and snagged another shot, then he trotted off in front of me back into the tundra. Keep in mind the pic was taken while I was still driving! I had planned on getting to Red Lodge before dusk and motel it. On the way over Beartooth Highway I came to a place called Top Of The World (9,200 feet!) that had four $50 rooms available, so I snagged one. What a cool, rustic place - it even had quilts on the bed! This morning’s sunrise was again beautiful and coffee is about done. No TV, but the owner, Bart, has satellite-wireless internet, albeit slow. Gonna snag some java, then head to the rally at Red Lodge and the locals are saying the best is still yet to come on the Beartooth Highway - yes! No pictures due to the slow upload speeds, so I’ll upload later in Red Lodge.
hasty bananna,
-Tom
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Postby Tawmass » Thu Aug 21, 2008 4:34 pm

* August 21, afternoon, Red Lodge, Montana, 3036 miles: GOOD GOD ALMIGHTY! I have been on a lot of roads and passes throughout this great country, but I HAVE NEVER BEEN ON ANYTHING SO BREATHTAKING! No, really - this is the most scenic, stunning, panoramic, marvel-of-engineering, beautiful, phenomenal motorbike road I have ever been on! Some of my favorite roads for years has been Highway 36 in Northern California and Independence Pass in Colorado, but the Beartooth Highway blows them away - period. This road is a life, check-off ride for any motorcycle enthusiast, or even in a car. There is practically something new around every corner and tops out at almost 11,000 feet. I am completely blown away and I’ll let the pictures do the talking. To see the actual Beartooth, look at the top of the pic of the cruiser guy.

I eventually made it to the Beartooth BMW Rally and got settled in. There is of course Beemers from everywhere, and even Gene Fessenbecker from Eugene and his two friends showed up. No internet at the Rally, so I’m at a coffee shop in Red Lodge. The rally people are saying the Chief Joseph Highway is on par with the Beartooth, so will try that tomorrow I think.
ta ta for now,
-Tom
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Last edited by Tawmass on Fri Oct 10, 2008 7:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby E-Ticket » Thu Aug 21, 2008 4:41 pm

Tawm, I'm totally stoked that you got to ride the Beartooth. And yes, the scale/height/vistas do tend to take your breath away. Oh yeah, and the road itself is pretty cool, too.

Ride on, homie! - rb
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Postby treeshot » Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:43 pm

Tawm, this has been a great ride report. So many places are familiar from when I went to Sturgis in 05 and 06. The Beartooth is awesome, I can remember sweating my ass off going through Red lodge then bundling up, at the top of the pass. It is a bummer you didn't get into Canada, but you have a nice ride going on there. Ride safe.

S Jones

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Postby Gary A » Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:58 am

I'm glad you got to do the Beartooth. When on top, it's like being on a different planet and because of the altitude it will take your breath away. I disagree that the Chief Joseph Hwy is comparable. It's a fun highway but nothing like Beartooth. Have fun and ride safe.
Gary A
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Postby Tawmass » Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:58 am

Hey thanks guys, I can't believe anyone's actually reading this crap. I'm just trying to document everything, so I can relive it again in the future when I'm stuck again at work. :)

The Rally is a typical rally - lotsa bikes, really great people, plenty of benchracing & lies, good food. My air mattress gave up the ghost in the middle of the night, so I slept even worse than normal. In Red Lodge now and picked up a recommended Agness Hiking Mattress. Should sleep good tonight! Oh, Willie Nelson's in concert tonight and I may try to get a ticket for it. Would like to see him before he kicks it, and where better to see him than in a part of the country riddled with real cowboys.

Methinks I'm going south today from Red Lodge, go over the Chief Joseph Highway, take Beartooth again back to the Rally, then maybe go dualsport some of the dirt roads I've seen in the distance and on the GPS.

It's great to be alive.
-Tom
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Postby E-Ticket » Fri Aug 22, 2008 11:08 am

Tawmass wrote:.....

It's great to be alive.
-Tom



Yup! :dancing1:

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Postby Tawmass » Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:16 am

* August 23, afternoon, Red Lodge, Montana, 3242 miles: Yesterday I took off north of Red Lodge (check out the funny t-shirt this guy was wearing!) and did some exploring on dirt roads. It was cool, but was basically farmlands. I also was able to talk with Danno and get a quick summary of his and Dale's marathon to AK. Can't wait to see their pix and hear all the stories! I then headed south and hooked up onto the Chief Joseph Highway. On the way down was an old mine with a very sad and tragic history. Then it seemed like the longest 17 miles ever of very long, straight highway. Things changed drastically once on the CJ. This Highway is made for motorcycles! All the turns are very smooth and predictable, begs you to go fast and a complete pleasure to drive. There were a few bugs that splatted my shield so hard it echoed inside! The switchbacks going up and down the summits are exhilarating.

I was sort of in a hurry to get back to camp to see if this other rally guy got me a Willie Nelson concert ticket, so I only took a couple pics, then caught up with a guy on a 1200GS. We both picked up the pace and really booked it over the passes and back down to the rally. Once at the rally, I discovered that the guy didn’t get the ticket, since we missed each other in the morning - dang, but oh well. That night was another killer meal, then a local bluegrass band showed up for music. They did everything from blues, country, Irish and rockabilly - bluegrass style. They were great! My new Big Agness mattress worked great and I fell into a deep sleep all night. I had a little fun with the camera with my friend, Bob from Illinois.

I loaded up today and am pointing the horse back to the barn. I can’t believe I’m returning home now after just three weeks! Kind of a sad feeling.

Bry: saw your post and will see if I can ride that Magruder Corridor.
JD/Dickie: I have a bunch of things we should do to our GS’s.

I figure I’ll be somewhere west of West Yellowstone by end of day. The weather looks excellent out for yet another run over Beartooth Pass, plus I hear some grizzly has been feeding off a dead buffalo for a day or so and hopefully he’ll still be dining for photographs!
Pullin’ in the reins,
-Tom
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Last edited by Tawmass on Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby wdratsloper » Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:01 pm

Keep it up Tommy. That 40d will take an awesome photo of that Grizzly/Buffalo encounter. I'm expecting machine gun shots.
CYA JOE

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Postby Tawmass » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:07 am

Heya Joe! I left the 40D at home, due to its size and am using my ol' G3 point-and-shoot camera, hence why many of the pix are only so so. Just not enough room on Barney to carry the big gun!
-Tom
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Postby Tawmass » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:37 am

* August 24, morning, Virginia City, Montana, 3508 miles: After making yesterday’s post (and warming up - it got down below 40 degrees overnight!), I left Red Lodge at the crack of noon and made my way over Beartooth Highway. It was just as epic for the third time - and the weather could not have been any finer! Many shots were taken as I was still driving the bike, so apologies for the bad framing. Check out the cool, old roadster that I followed numerous times and eventually passed in the quaint village of Cooke City, where it looked to be having a Harleyfest. I then made my way over the northern loop of Yellowstone to Mammoth Hot Springs again and all the way out to West Yellowstone without even one incidence of a ’buffalo jam’. Dang, never did see a grizzly!

Boring notes of things to do to Barney this winter (JD/Dickie - take note. Most of these are suggestions from Gene Fessenbecker and Dave Zuber - knowledgeable GSers):
** Update the driveshaft to one with grease fittings and no longer be concerned about it.
** Update the driveshaft rubber dampener to fix any oscillation concerns.
** Inspect/replace driveshaft/rear tapered bearing, when driveshaft is out.
** Install the rubber float-bowl gaskets.
** Lube the splines - the one back by the wheel and the one between the tranny and engine.
** Replace the 20-tooth fifth gear with the 22 tooth gear to give it longer legs (or is it 22 tooth with 20 tooth?).
** Clean up the alternator brushes with light sandpaper - a quick and simple procedure.
** Grease the starter gearing mechanism (not greased from the factory).
** Try softer rear brake shoes to see if they improve.
** Install taller bars or risers.
** Install a Continental Twinduro (knobby) on the front and an Avon Gripster (dualsport) on the back. Supposed to be an excellent combo for road and off road, plus the combo lasts for about 8k miles.
** Install/upgrade the diode board and grounding strap with the better one from Thunder (something) Products.
** Install lighter throttle springs.

I contacted and reserved a room at Chick’s Steakhouse and Motel in Alder, MT and was lucky to find that, since all motels in the region were full, since it was a weekend. So I lit out north of the touristy West Yellowstone, then turned left onto 287 and went by Quake Lake. What an interesting story: in 1959 there was a major earthquake in the area that killed numerous people, ruined the highway and dammed up the local river. The Army Corp of Engineers had to be called in quickly to make a relief point for the water, so as not to have major flooding downstream. The newly formed lake was dubbed appropriately Quake Lake and the dead trees are still standing from the disaster. Speaking of disaster, continuing north of there were very long stints of straight pavement and literally herds of deer and antelope. I was nervous and had to chase many deer off the highway. Coming into the town of Ennis, it looked like they were having some sort of festival, which I think may have been based around fly fishing. It’s a big deal in this region, since all the rivers are peppered with fly fisherman casting away.

Continuing east from the prairie city of Ennis on 287, I went over another beautiful pass, but the sun was about ready to set, so I was watchful for Bambi. I rolled into the very historic mining towns of Virginia City, then Nevada City, where a cop suddenly was behind me with his lights on and hit his siren. Damn! I quickly pulled over and he sailed on by with his lights still blazing. Whew! These two towns look to be a photographic coupe de grace, so I plan on going back Sunday morning. I pulled into Chick’s at dusk, got cleaned up, and partied with the locals in the one-horse town of Alder. My bartender (Fran) was a lot of laughs and the locals picked me out immediately as a tourist and were buying me drinks left and right and I finally had to say no mas! Good people.

I’m now at a coffee shop in Virginia City, MT - very historic. Driving down here I got the same feeling that I do every morning when I climb onto the horse and take off - an almost overwhelming sense of freedom and independence. It is almost indescribable as the surroundings touch all the senses; the smell of fresh-cut hay, the morning sun casting that ‘magic’ light on the surroundings, the deer grazing silently in the fields, the gentle vibration of the boxer motor, knowing I can go (or stop) anywhere, and a good song in my head (this morning it’s Outlaw Man by the Eagles). I’m pretty much a social type of person, but the solitude and freedom is just so damn good for the soul - apologies for waxing nostalgic to anyone actually reading this drivel.
Go west young man,
-Tom
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Last edited by Tawmass on Thu Dec 18, 2008 9:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby Tawmass » Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:48 am

* August 25, morning, Missoula, Montana, 3766 miles: Seeking Wisdom - Well, for all the poetic license I was talking about yesterday morning, the afternoon sucked - it was hotter than the proverbial two-dollar pistol! I pulled out of Virginia City after snapping a few shots and, as I was snapping a water shot, who pulls up beside me but Gene Fessenbecker on his Bumble Bee! Funny timing. And check out the shot of the cowboy church. I rolled on down Hwy 287 to Twin Bridges and turned left on 41 to Dillon - boring. South of Dillon, I turned right on Hwy 278 and things started to get pretty desolate as I watched the odometer roll over. The highlights were Badger and Big Hole Passes. Jackson looked like another touristy town with plenty of rustic atmosphere. Remember Bob from Illinois, who I met earlier? He was commenting about the town of Wisdom and a write up he read in Rider Magazine. My old manager’s last name was Wisdom, so I had a take a pic of the town sign too. With all its wisdom, Wisdom isn’t much. Check out their international airport - one picnic table! On the other hand, this valley (Bitteroot) had miles upon miles of lush-green fields of hay stacked everywhere, and half of it was stacked into these island-sized blocks. Check out the massive hay machines that pack the hay into the huge blocks! Of course the deer were everywhere on this day again and I’m sure they were taking bets on who could t-bone me the quickest.

Dugan/Dickie - I didn’t know you guys had your own ranch! :lol:

By then it was really getting warm, approaching 90 degrees, as Barney hummed along up Chief Joseph Pass to Hwy 93, where I turned north. At the top of Chief Joseph Pass it was over 6k feet, but the highway descended to under 3k feet and it was HOT! My thermometer said 97 degrees - ugh! This area had been ravaged recently with major forest fires, so it made it even hotter. I eventually made it to the KOA in Missoula, had a fish taco, a Negra Modelo, a shower, and called it a night. Songs stuck in my head for the day was 'Hiding In The Desert Sky' by Marshall Tucker Band and various tunes by Minus The Bear (Google 'em).

It’s about 8am and I’m looking forward to going over Lolo Pass to Lewiston, Idaho, then through Enterprise, Oregon and will probably crash for the night in Pendleton, then make it home on Tuesday. To stay cool, I must do what the clock picture says.
Wisdom found,
-Tom
PS: Bry - went through Darby, but can't seem to find this Magruder Pass you referred to, so am heading over Lolo Pass.
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Postby E-Ticket » Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:40 am

So Tawm...

You going to do a load of laundry, pay some bills ... and then head back out in a different direction? :lol:

Oh, that's right, you're going to Greece. You bastad'...! <g>

Glad to see you're still Tawm: 1 Bambi: 0

Cheers! RandyB
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